The ball point needle is not optional for jersey — it's mandatory. The rounded tip is specifically designed to push between the loops of a knitted fabric rather than piercing through them. Use a sharp needle on jersey and you risk cutting the yarn loops, creating "runs" — visible lines where the knit structure has been damaged, like a ladder in a stocking.
SES stands for the specific ball point classification used for standard jersey. It's a slight ball — rounded enough to slide between loops, but not so blunt that it struggles to penetrate the fabric. For most jersey and single-knit applications, SES is the correct choice.
Any time your fabric is knitted — jersey, rib, interlock — spec a ball point needle. Sharp needles are for woven fabrics only.
Understanding needle sizing
Needles have two numbers — European metric size and American size, written together as 70/10 or 80/12. The larger the number, the thicker the needle. Thicker needles are for heavier fabrics; finer needles for lighter fabrics.
Production specs for your tech pack
| Spec | Value | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Needle type | Ball Point SES | Never use sharp/universal on knits |
| Size range | 70/10 – 80/12 | Match to fabric GSM |
| Change frequency | Every 8 hours or per style | Dull needles cause skipped stitches |
| Application | All knit seams | Overlock and coverseam machines |
In FlatLabs PRO, ball point needle specs are automatically included in the construction notes of every jersey garment — matched to the fabric weight selected in the BOM.
Why needle spec matters in a tech pack
Factories work fast. A production line sewing hundreds of units per day may not change needles between styles unless the tech pack specifies it. If your garment requires a ball point needle and the factory uses whatever was loaded from the previous job, you can end up with fabric damage that only shows up during QC — or worse, after the garment reaches the customer.
Including needle type in your construction notes is a simple line that can prevent a significant quality problem. It signals to the factory that you know what you're talking about — and that gives you more leverage during QC discussions.