Flat embroidery is what separates a premium garment from a printed one. A woven or screen-printed logo sits on the surface — embroidery is stitched into the fabric, creating a three-dimensional texture that signals quality before the customer even reads the brand name. It doesn't crack, fade, or peel. Done well, it lasts longer than the garment itself.
The "flat" in flat embroidery distinguishes it from 3D or puff embroidery, where foam is placed under the stitching to create a raised effect. Flat embroidery lies close to the fabric surface — the standard approach for chest logos, sleeve badges, and collar embellishments.
Embroidery is priced by stitch count. A simple small logo runs 3,000–7,000 stitches. A detailed chest badge can reach 15,000+. Always include stitch count in your BOM — it's the unit your supplier quotes against.
Understanding stitch count
Stitch count is exactly what it sounds like — the total number of individual stitches in the embroidered design. It determines production time, thread consumption, and therefore cost. A small, simple logo (like a text wordmark or minimal icon) at 4 cm width typically runs 3,000–5,000 stitches. A larger, more detailed badge with fill stitching and multiple colors can reach 10,000–20,000 stitches.
Your embroidery supplier will provide the stitch count when they digitize your artwork — the process of converting a vector logo into a machine-readable stitch file (.DST or .EMB format). Always request the stitch count at digitizing stage, before approving the design for production. It's how you verify you're getting what you specified.
Rayon vs. polyester thread
Most embroidery thread is either rayon or polyester. Rayon has a slightly higher sheen and is traditional for decorative embroidery. Polyester is more colorfast, more resistant to washing, and increasingly preferred for garment embroidery. For a t-shirt that will be washed repeatedly, specify polyester thread — it holds color better over the long term.
Production specs for your tech pack BOM
| Spec | Value | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Technique | Flat embroidery | Not puff/3D embroidery |
| Thread | Rayon or Polyester | Specify — polyester preferred for wash durability |
| Stitch count | Specify per design | Provided by supplier at digitizing stage |
| Thread colors | Pantone TCX reference | One reference per color in design |
| Backing | Cut-away or tear-away | Cut-away for knits — tear-away for wovens |
| Placement | Specify in mm | e.g. "Left chest, 7 cm from center, 12 cm from shoulder seam" |
| Sew-out sample | Required | Physical embroidered sample for approval before bulk |
Important: always use cut-away backing on jersey. Tear-away backing is removed after embroidery — on a stretchy knit fabric, this can distort the stitching or damage the fabric. Cut-away backing stays permanently in place and stabilizes the embroidery on the stretch of the jersey.